Applying Lightner to Hair

    Published: 06-16-2009
    Views: 18,598
    Hair stylist Anissa King demonstrates how to apply lightener to ethnic hair.

    Benisa King: Hi I'm Benisa King and this is coloring, highlighting, conditioning of ethnic hair and now we are going to do the highlighting of ethnic hair. First you want your lightener and you choose a developer that you feel will help with the integrity of the hair. You can go on with big guns if you are in a rush and that would be the 30 to 40 volume, or you can take your little pistols out and use a 10 volume or 20 depending on the hair type, the integrity of the hair, the 0:39. You being a stylist or beautician, you should know which developer goes best for what type of hair. We are using 20. And with the lightener you definitely want to mix it to your consistency of how thick you like it or how watery you like it. I usually like mine like the consistency of a whipped cream. We have our foils which are pre cut long enough for about seven strands of hair that will be woven on to this. I usually make the client work and pass them to me, but today I'll be professional and pick them off as we go. I'm doing only color partial highlight in this 1:34. There will just be a few highlights throughout here, and on the sides to add a dimensional look for her. Sub-section about a quarter of an inch and we take a finer weave 1:54 in and out to pick up in between. This would be the lightening pieces of her hair. Take your foil, placing it, and it s close to the root as you can possibly get. You don't want it too close to the scalp or the edge of the foil because when folded over, it tends to swell just a little bit, your timing has everything in lightening hair. By the time you get to the front your back maybe processed. Process in the hairy glue would know what tone you are looking for, what color you are looking for and you have to know that if you are going for a lighter color, it has to go through that orangey, Goldie looking to get to the tone that you want off blondes, the lighter blondes. So, your eye is a definitely a top tool for highlighting the hair. Knowing what tone you are looking for. We are going for a orangey highlight because her toner will have an ash content in it which will balance that out, and we will have a beautiful red highlight when we are done. Along her front I'm going to do just a little thicker weave just to give her little bit more bang and along her bang. And the thing about foils is, everywhere you place a foil, you will get color, not like back in the day when they used to highlight with a cap where you didn't know exactly where that color was coming from, you know wherever you place hair or lightener on the hair in the foils, it's going to be color there, and now she processes for about let's say ten minutes, maybe seven to ten minutes. I'm going to stick her under a dryer just to help with the speed of timing but anywhere from seven to ten minutes, she should be lifted to a level where we can tone and give her the beautiful red that she is waiting for, and if you are at home and you don't have a dryer you should process ten minutes longer than the volume of the developer that you chose. So, if you are doing ten volume, 20 minutes out, 20 volume, 30 minutes out, 30 volume, 40 minutes out, and your processing time should be the same, and now she is going under a dryer.