Nick Marine: Hello! Nick Marine with Marine Plumbing Service. Today, we are going to show you how to replace an old tub-and-shower valve with a new updated tub-and-shower valve. Let's get started with that valve right now, removing the old valve now. This is your main water shut off. This is called a ball valve. There's a ball inside here that rotates. We just shut off all the water to the house. We are ready to start replacing our valve upstairs. Once we open up something down here in the basement, we can start draining the upstairs floors. So what we are doing here now is opening the water. Once you open this water, you'll see the amount of volume coming down because it's a three-storey house. Even though we turn off the water here in the basement, there's a lot of head pressure and the water remaining in the system. So all that excessive pressure you just saw was from the three storeys just pounding down here.
So that's going to continue running until all the pipes upstairs are drained out. It'll stop at one point. When I open up a valve in the third storey, it'll finish; it'll break the air gap and continue allowing air in which will push the rest of the water of the house down to the basement into this fixture.
We are going to go ahead and remove the handle with this 4 In 1 screwdriver. Pull it out. So what we are going to do this remove this faceplate screws. Take the flat head screwdriver. You can see there's no crock. You can see where the mold was getting back in there, leaking a little bit. Now, we are going to remove the tub spout with an Allen wrench, and we are going to take our keyhole saw and make an incision in through, behind the shower valve, through the drywall so we can get a center point to the back wall. So we start cutting out our drywall. You'll see inside is where your actual valve is.
Next step, we are going to cut out the old tub-and-shower valve. There you go, with one hand, there it is, the old valve. Okay, we are outside now to do as much soldering as we can outside to keep the gases from inside that tight, confined space. What we want to do is we want to go ahead and instead of screwing this male adapter in here and put a Teflon tape on it and then soldering in here, that solder joint would make this tape or Teflon pipe dope melt. So what I am trying to do is preheat this or make this fitting like this. We are going to screw this in and then we'll solder back here so it doesn't affect this joint.
Now, we are going to do the next step is you can see the hole that we have to work with. We are going to dry fit. What I mean by dry fit, we are going to cut all the copper, fit it in place dry, slide the couplings on or fittings, and then I'll be ready to start soldering. Okay, now we are on the other side of the shower. We have everything irrupting for our spout and the valve itself. Now, we are going to put on the American standard trim plate. Already you can see how impressive that is. Really heavy gauge material there. Put your hands, it's working nice and easy, there you go. You could tell the difference when we use good quality products. This will last for years. Now we are going to go ahead and pull the insulation back from the ceiling down which we pushed up so we don't cause a fire, and I am going to do that now. Okay so now we are going to do is we are going to take the acrylic silicone. I was going to put a small bead around this opening. This does have tension on this, but because it's such as large hole, I am going to go ahead and make this a more permanent setting. Okay, now that we've installed our valve, up next will be installing a caulk, faceplate and we'll be talking about hot limit safeties.