Matt Landsberg: Hi my name is Matt Landsberg; I am President of Eric Finn Custom Clothiers. Today we are going to talk about what to look for when buying a custom suit, how to have it fit well, how to find a good tailor and ultimately how to take care of your suit.
Here we've got Brice with a shirt that's been tailored for him. First thing you'll notice is how it fits in the shoulders. A big point is, is that the piece across the back called the yoke is not too long, frequently you'll see shirts that are bought off the rack where the yoke comes down and is ill fitting, it looks a little bit sloppy. The sleeves are a good length, not a whole lot of extra bulky material there.
So then, let's next put the jacket on him. Now keep in mind this jacket wasn't specifically tailored for Brice, but it fits in general pretty well. First thing to notice is how it fits in the shoulders, it's not too full; it's not too wide. The thing two is notice the sleeves are just right, you're shown about a quarter inch of cuff and then also the chest is good, here he has got a nice taper in the lacey.
A lot of times I see a guy, now the tie is going to be too short. This is important details, especially if you are on business, is to get the tie length just right. In this case you can see the tie goes right to the top of the belt buckle that's perfect.
And now we are going to talk about how to create illusion with a suit to make you look either, taller, wider or slimmer. In this case if we imagine Brice looking or if Brice were say 5 foot 5 and he wanted to create the illusion of being a little bit taller, we want to create more linear lines or more long vertical lines.
So the first thing you'd want to do when you're buying a jacket is get something that's got a longer lapel. So he would prefer a two-button jacket which creates longer lines on him versus a three-button where you've got a wider V in the lapel.
To create the illusion of longer legs you want the overall jacket length to be a little bit shorter making the legs look longer.
If you have a seasonal suit and something that you only wear in a summer or during the winter months and you are storing it, you want to keep it in a bag that breathes pretty well. So I prefer not to have a suit stored in plastic because of fiber is not getting air circulating.
Lastly, you want to make sure that the tailor or the company you are working with has a policy of getting it right. There have been times that have heard poor stories from clients and other people that a suit can be made and if the client is not happy, what are they going to do about it? Are they going to say tough luck, go from there or they are going to fix it for you.
That's how a suit should fit.