Men’s Fashion – How to Fit and Wear a Shirt and Tie

    Published: 06-16-2009
    Views: 79,336
    Men’s fashion expert Matt Landsberg discusses how to fit and wear a shirt and tie for your suit.

    Matt Landsberg

    Matt Landsberg

    Starting out in structured finance and asset-backed securities, Mattrealized the money isn’t always greener working for someone else. He decided to make a180-degree turn, leave securities(and security) and start Eric Finn Custom Clothiers. Working with and learning from master tailors, Matthas built a successful custom clothing company, catering to the needs of numerous executives, politicians, attorneys, and professional athletes (and anyone else that appreciates perfect fitting clothes). Matt offers BBG some insight on the benefits of making a good impression.

    Hi, my name is Matt Landsberg with Eric Finn Custom Clothiers, and we're talking about how to buy a suit and have a suit and shirt fit properly. Specifically now we're going to talk about how a shirt should fit, how it should be worn, and a lot of the detail aspects of shirt and tie, and how it all comes together. In this case we will start off with the collar. Now, Brice has a fairly narrow face, so to best offset that and again, go back to create an illusion, you want a wider spread collar. For somebody who has a narrower face, it's ideal to have a slimmer collar. When you have a wider collar as Brice does, you want a fairly large knot that fills up that space well. When you have a slimmer collar spread, you want a narrower collar. The other thing about collars, to keep in mind if you're buying a collar, is you can get them fused or non-fused. Now, most shirts off the rack are fused because it's quicker to do, it's easier in the manufacturing process, but there are pros and cons to both. A lot of guys are really interested in comfort, especially around the neck. In this case Brice has on a non-fused collar, which is great, it's going to be more comfortable and so less stiff, but the downside is, as you can see, there is just a fine wrinkle there, and you really got to stay on your dry cleaner to get that pressed out very well. Whereas on the flip side, a fuse collar doesn't wrinkle as easily, but again, it's very stiff. A lot of times I see a guy running out of the office or wherever, going to work, and their tie is going to be too short. This is important detail, especially if you're in business, is to get the tie length just right. In this case you can see the tie goes right to the top of the belt buckle, that's perfect. If it's too short, you're going to look like a clown. I see a lot of guys, old professors and such, where the tie was too long. So, that's important, when you're tying the knot, make sure that the length of the tie goes right to the top of the belt buckle. Another thing we will mention is cufflinks. So, I will show a few specifics of cufflinks, how to apply them, and what to look for in buying cufflinks. Now, here you can see I have got two cufflinks built slightly differently. This one here is a little bit less expensive and it does not have a hinge here, so you can see it's fairly fixed. The downside of that is, is it doesn't have the same mobility. If you accidentally dropped it, step on it or something like that, you're probably going to break it. Whereas this one here has a hinge built in, and so you've got some flexibility, it's a bit more durable and probably won't break, because it's not welded, and you don't have that point that's welded closed. As far as putting the cufflink in on a French cuff shirt, typically when you've got a French cuff shirt, it's going to come too long like this, what you want to do is fold it on half, or fold the cuff up, as Brice is doing here, and now you're going to put the cufflink through. So, once it's folded, you have got four buttonholes that should all be lined up. Take your cufflink and just put it through each individual hole, like so. It's usually pretty easy when you've got somebody else to do it for you. So, that's how it's going to look when it's finished. One minor detail you want to notice as well is you're going to want to button the placket button, a lot of people overlook that. Another thing that people dont necessarily know when they have got a shirt with a pocket, now of course this one doesnt have a pocket, but if you do have a pocket, the most you ever want to put in your pocket is -- well, you can put business cards or anything flat, but the most you want to put in is a single pen, and that's going to be to the center most part of the body. So, if you have a pen and the pocket spreads here, you're going to want to put it to the most center aspect of the body to look professional, otherwise you've heard about professors with their pocket protectors and 101 different pieces of things in their pocket. This is how it's done properly. Next we're going to talk about what to look for in quality suit.