Zombie Makeup – Adding Detail

    Published: 06-16-2009
    Views: 18,216
    Makeup Artist Christopher Patrick discusses adding detail to zombie makeup.

    Christopher Patrick: Alright, so while Ryan finishes up the blue foundation, I am going to start working on some of our detail today. I am using a Mehron Pro Bruising 5 Color bruise wheel; it is my favorite bruise wheel. Though there are many on the market, the Mehron just, their colors seem to be perfect. There is a Bloody Rose which is a nice red; there is a Burnt Maroon, which is a deep burgundy, a Midnight Sky, which is a bluish black, Spanish Olive and Maize Yellow.

    What I am going to do with this while Ryan finishes up, is I am going to start modeling the skin. Shortly after we die, our blood starts to seep out of our capillaries and deposit in the skin and you sort of get that marbled effect to the skin. This is going to be the heaviest in places on the face that are fed and those places would be the corners of your eyes, the corner of your mouth, around the edge of your nostril, around the base of the ear and at your temporal lobe. These are all places that need a lot of oxygen for movement, so that's where the majority of your broken veins and modeling is going to go.

    I am going to use a stiff fan brush, I like the cheapest possible fan brushes; you wanted to have some body to it, not to be it too floppy for this process. I am going to take a little bit of alcohol and I am going to start by using this burnt maroon color, I am going to get it all on the edges of this fan brush, then I am going to test it on the back of my hand, just to see whether I am going to get off of it.

    So what I am going to do now is I am going to stipple, again that's the motion of moving back and forth. But I am also going to twirl the brush as I do it, so I start getting a nice random pattern.

    Once I thoroughly do this over the face in burgundy, I am going to switch in and also use a bit of the midnight blue just to give it a little more depth. While Ryan finishes the modeling, I am going to start doing a little bit of detailing around his eye socket area to continue having that feel of them being sunken in.

    The first thing I am going to do though is I am going to take my red lip liner, and I am going to use it as eyeliner. Nothing really sells a dead makeup or an old makeup like having a bloody feel to the eyes and it's really simple to do. If you just go ahead and take a red pencil and you have your model look up at the ceiling, pull down the edge of their eyelid and right on that little pink membrane you just color a little red in. It may cause your model's eyes to water, that's perfectly okay and sort of expected during this point.

    So Ryan is now going to go over and do the modeling again with the dark blue. We are not going to do as much this time as we did with the red. We just again, we are trying to add depth to the skin. When he does that, I am going to take a little more burgundy and I am going to sort of create sunken, eye bags with it. I am now just adding a little color to his lids. I am also going to take a little of our blue tone and the -- I am going to go back to the fan brush and I am just going to sort of bring this out and over the edges.

    Next step, I think we should add a little color to his lips. I am going to go back to using the makeup from the Ben Nye Ghoul Kit; there is a color in there called Misty Violet. Be real aware that almost all of these makeups that we are using come both in a cream and powder form. And so if you are ordering makeup from places online or you are in a store, be sure -- that you know what you are asking for. Again for the face stuff, I use almost all cream makeups, but on places like his hands that we are going to make match this, we are going to want to use a powdered makeup because it's not going to come off so easily. So if he is touching things or lifting up food or holds a napkin or hugs somebody, he won't be living parts of himself behind.

    Now at the edge of this, I am sort of just painting in where the lips would join each other to make the makeup look a little more congruent. At this point, you might want to use a couple of these colors also just to add a little depth to these holes in his head.

    I am mixing blacks and purples just to give some more depth and as I said, I wanted the end of this nose to look like it had been rotten off, so we are just painting the tip of it black. And always remember, again, shadow and light is how you create effect. So like right now, if I want to make his brow a little more prominent, I could just take a little of black and literally go under his brow to create an extra shadow there. And it will instantly create the illusion that there is more brow moving forward just by having a shadow underneath it.

    Alright, so I am just going to now finish this up by, we are going to add a few little veins around the edges of his eyes and I am going to take a little bit of this natural highlight color, just on my finger and if I apply that right above the brow line, that's going to move it a little more forward towards you.

    Lastly, I am going to have Ryan take his fingers with a little green and sort of go around the perimeters just so he has a little mold. To finish this up, we are just going to give a few more shadows and a few more highlights to make this work a little better. You can actually just do this with your fingers. I am going to go ahead and do the shadows with the black and Ryan can then highlight. What I am going to do is I am just going to sort of go around his jaw line to make the jaw stand out a little more and up in his temples, just to make the skull sink in a little deeper.

    And Ryan is sort of going to go in between these areas and add a little highlight. Okay! So we have got our base kit of makeup on and now really - next step is we have to bloody him up and do something with his hair.